June, 2002

Hi everyone,

We finally got out of Marathon on May 14, 2002. We had waited two weeks for good weather, and we were well rewarded. The complete absence of wind made the trip back across to Varadero longer than we anticipated, (24 hours to go 97 nautical miles), but the conditions were so perfect, time did not matter. The seas were so calm, we were able to leave all our windows open, and the hatch above the v-berth as well, for the entire trip. There was no moon, but the kazillion shining stars provided a beautiful shimmering light on the water. Our best trip ever.

Checking back into Varadero was quick and painless, as usual. As well as the officials waiting for us on the dock, we also had the dockmaster, Robertico, and one of the tower workers, Abelito, on hand to greet us ˆ just like coming home from a two week vacation.

We believe we have mentioned our friends Brett and Laurel from Canada. Brett works here for Sherritt International, and Laurel has lived here for four years with their three children. Brett had asked us to bring back some steaks from Marathon, and we had brought ourselves steaks as well, along with some ribs and sausages. We had the grocery store freeze everything for us, and we got it all packed into our Kool-a-Tron before leaving Marathon. We were quite anxious to get the meat transferred into Brett and Laurel's freezer, so they came down the same night we arrived to pick up the meat. We were delighted to find everything still frozen solid, after 36 hours.

The next day was a big laundry day, after being in Marathon for two weeks without visiting a laundromat. Then I opened all the lockers and hauled out all the stuff we had bought for other people ˆ everything from baking and cooking supplies, rigging hardware, a telephone/answering machine, dog food, parrot food ... and on and on and on! That night, Danny was able to watch his first complete NHL hockey game after a couple of weeks at anchor, and, that, with the Maple Leafs still in the play-offs!

The following day when we went to Carlos and Luisa's , they presented me with a beautiful Mother's Day rose -- how thoughtful! We stayed for supper, had a good visit well into the evening, and made plans to return the following night (May 18th) for spaghetti night!

We got a fair bit of rain the next few days ˆ all- day drizzles, lots of thunder and lightning, making everything damp, and impossible to dry out. We were closed up in the boat during this time, but things finally brightened up, the sun shone again, and everything dried.

On May 22, a regatta from Key West arrived ˆ over 30 sailboats stopping here for 3 nights, then continuing onto Havana. Beside us on the dock, we had four fellows on Lucky Dog III ˆ very nice guys, invited us to share a steak supper with them on their first night here. They also introduced me to their “Bay Breezes” cocktail ˆ vodka, pineapple juice and cranberry-apple juice. Yummy! Over a couple of days we had jam sessions on our boat and on our dock, lots of people traffic, (Lobita was in heaven) ˆ and lots of visiting - great fun. One of the boats across from us (“I Lean” ˆ the dinghy is called “I Tip”) stayed behind for a couple of extra days after the rest of the boats continued on to Havana. The morning they left, they invited me over to help myself to some of their canned goods ˆ we were very thankful to get some soups and canned vegetables, and their refusal of payment was a big bonus.

During this time, Brett and his helper/captain ˆ Chavez ˆ were doing a lot of fishing. We were always offered some of the fresh catch of the day, and Brett would often drop off fish at Carlos and Luisa's as well.

We have propped up our dinghy across the end of the dock, blocking out the prevailing easterly wind. With the barbecue tucked in close to the dinghy, we have been able to use the barbecue almost every night. Some mornings, I take our two burner hot plate out on the dock and cook up potatoes and eggs for an evening salad. This certainly cuts down on the heat in the cabin ˆ which is certainly a big factor these days. We have heard about the drought-like conditions in Canada, and the heat waves you have been having, and we can certainly relate, because it is pretty darned hot here. During the day, there is usually a nice breeze, however in the early hours of the mornings, the breeze dies and the heat settles in (as do the mosquitoes). However, we use fans to keep cool, and Lobita gets hosed down with water as required. Also, she spends time in the lobby of the marina ˆ nice shaded area, marble floors to help keep her cool, and a natural wind tunnel for fresh air.

During the summer months, produce selection in the markets changes considerably. No longer is there an abundance of cabbage, carrots, and onions, but to replace them are fruits such as mangos and avocados. These days, it is necessary to get to the market nice and early, before the day heats up too much and starts to wilt the items for sale.

The tourist industry takes a sharp dive in June and July, and most workers are given 15-30 day “vacations” ˆ this means they do not work as the hotels and restaurants downsize for the slow periods. The employees are still paid their regular salary, but they do not get their tips and perks, which they do depend on. Carlos was off for the last two weeks of June, and spent much of the time fishing off the shore of the Bay of Cardenas just across the highway from his home.

Carlos had borrowed a large gas barbecue for Danny's birthday, and had us over for fresh snapper, fried banana, rice and beans, and salad. They presented Danny with a book containing a photo collection of Che Guevera ˆ a hero from the revolution ˆ which pleased Danny immensely. Ten days later, on Carlos‚ birthday, Brett and Laurel joined us at Carlos and Luisa's, bringing along their barbecue. We cooked up a mess of ribs and had a great celebration in Carlos‚ honour. A few days later was Brett's birthday, and we went to his place for another barbecue. He had invited his fellow Sherritt co-workers for a marvelous selection of salads, barbecued dorado and lobster, and spicy hot chili donated by one of “the guys”.

One afternoon, Robertico, the dockmaster, showed up to announce he was the “Boss of the marina” for that night (all the bosses rotate nightly shifts so there is always someone here if a problem should arise). Robertico had received a message from Brett that he and Laurel would be down for a visit after supper, and we were welcome to invite Carlos and Luisa as well. The day before, a small sailboat (22‚ Bone Fish) pulled in with Adam (early twenties), his father Tad, and two of Adam's friends (the big question was “Where do they all sleep?”). We borrowed some plastic patio chairs from the marina, and ended up having the four from Bone Fish, Brett and Laurel, Carlos and Luisa, and Luisa's brother, Carlos, and his wife, Yulisa. Danny had filled the cooler (my washing machine) with beer and ice, and the music and talking attracted other employees from around the marina.

Having the beer in the cooler seemed like a good idea, so it has remained a permanent fixture. I am back to doing laundry in a pail, however, I do believe once summer is over I will be able to reclaim it. In the meantime, ice cold beer is always available, as well as bottles of drinking water, and juices.

Not everything is fun and games (and eating), and Danny has had the opportunity to contribute to the bounties. He has been out fishing a few times with Brett and Chavez, and even did an overnighter with them. Three nights after a full moon, the red snapper are abundant, and local fishermen, as well as some from as far as away as Havana, head out to catch what they can. The night Danny went, they returned in the morning with 44 snapper. After Brett “donated” some to a few marina employees, a couple to Carlos, (one of which Luisa and Yulisa stuffed with ham, cheese, shrimp and lobster, sewed the incision, and baked in the oven ˆ mouthwatering, don't you think), some to the Sherritt employees, Chavez and Chispa (another captain who had accompanied them) had 9 fish each to take home to their families. Very successful trip!

One day, Chavez explained to us he and his son had to go out to catch bait ˆ he asked Danny and I along to help. We left the marina at midnight, and headed along the coast, close to shore. Two spotlights were mounted on the bow, and two people would stand behind the lights with nets on long poles. As the baitfish (escrivano) appeared in the lights, the nets were dipped in and the fish scooped up. The net would then be passed to a third person, standing with a pail ready, and the net of fish would be emptied, then passed back. The fourth person was the driver. It was great fun to see Chavez and his son competing against each other to be “numero uno”. Danny's turn on the bow proved the level of expertise and practice needed to be successful, and the three of them caught over 100 fish in just over three hours. We had a blast, and told Chavez we were available anytime he needs another run for bait.

Over Christmas, Luisa's brother and his wife, Carlos and Yulisa, had rented out their “apartment” for six weeks to a fellow from Italy. He quickly became a good friend of the family, and we spent a lot of time with him over the holiday season. At the end of June, he returned for another two weeks stay, during which time he had a birthday. Carlos decided a major party was in order for the four birthday boys of June. He bought a pig, did up a traditional pig roast, there was music and dancing, and we partied until about 1:30 a.m. At that time Brett and Laurel offered us a ride back to the marina. During this particular weekend, a small community about 5 miles from the marina ˆ Boca de Camarioca ˆ was having a large pargo festival, an annual celebration of the red snapper. Brett decided we should “swing by” and check out the festivities in Boca. Danny and I were astonished at the hordes of people in the streets of this small village especially at that time of the morning. A band from Havana was playing to hundreds of people, there were food stalls every couple of feet (most had a small roast pig displayed), and everywhere we looked people were dancing and singing. Who would have thought a fish could cause such excitement.

One day a Cuban working vessel docked at the marina, with a crew of oceanographers on board. They travel the coastline looking for erosion of the beaches, and repairing as required. They are based in Havana, and one of the crew spoke English quite well. They joined us one afternoon for cocktails, presenting us with four beautiful seashells, and introducing us to the traditional saoco ˆ rum, coco water and ice (mint, when available, is also used).

One evening, just after supper, two gentlemen approached us on the dock, accompanied by a member of the Coast Guard and a Customs official. The older gentleman, hailing from Ontario, was seeking information on his son and a friend who had gone missing. Apparently, the two were in a 34-36‚ powerboat, making way for Havana, when a Cuban Coast Guard patrol boat noticed them about 5 miles offshore, and called them on the VHF. The Canadians explained they were heading to Havana, but were low on fuel. The Coast Guard advised them to carry on, close to shore.

The following afternoon, the Coast Guard once again spotted the vessel, now about 12 miles offshore. They tried calling the boat on the VHF, received no answer, so approached the boat. They noticed it filling with water, and upon boarding the boat, discovered no one on board. They attempted to tow the boat, but it sank despite their efforts.

The father, understandably, was frantic for news of his son and the friend. We were not able to assist, but he did have the Canadian Embassy and Coast Guard officials helping. That was the last we heard of the story. If anyone has further information on this, please let us know ˆ the names of the two missing persons are Shane Catherwood (24 years old) and James White (33 years old).

At the beginning of July, Laurel and the kids moved back to Alberta. She and Brett have purchased an acreage just east of Red Deer, and have decided as the kids get older, they need more structure through Canadian school systems, and to enjoy more options in extra-curricular activities. Brett will soon start a rotational life ˆ working here for four weeks, then going back to Alberta for three. Sherrit International provides all the transportation, but if the direct flight from Calgary is full, each trip takes two days with a stopover in Toronto.

Thanks to Brett and the Sherritt workers, Danny and I have benefited immensely. Many of the guys, who regularly go out fishing with Brett, have offered to bring us “stuff” from Canada. There are workers coming and going twice a week, and we have managed to get some things not available here (like Hellman's mayonnaise). We have several e-mail addresses through which we can make our requests, but we do try to limit ourselves to necessities ˆ we don't want to spoil a good thing. Also, two boats that were at the marina previously, have contacted us to say they are returning from Florida in early August, and have offered to bring us dog food. It certainly makes life easier for us, and diminishes the need to return to the States (which is a very costly journey and causes Danny to go into shopping/spending shock).

Lobita has been able to receive another year's supply of heart-worm/intestinal parasite/anti-flea medication of the same brand she is accustomed to and rabies shots are available here. Those, complete with her North American style of dog food, (dry kibble mixed with canned meat in gravy/sauce) ensure she is taken care of and kept happy.

One of the Sherritt guys has indicated a position may be opening up in his area, and Danny submitted his resume to him. We are keeping our fingers crossed. We don't want to get our hopes up too much, but an income would certainly be the icing on the cake ˆ especially the way the markets have been behaving lately.

We have purchased a bicycle, and with the loan of little Danny's bike over the summer months, we are now enjoying more freedom than we have had in the past. Just a 15 minute ride to Carlos‚ (instead of a 45-50 minute walk), brings us close to the beach, the bakery, and the internet. We installed a milk crate on a rack at the back of the bike, so carrying things home is much easier than backpacks. We are into the season of late afternoon thunderstorms, so we are usually home by 5:00 p.m., to ensure Lobita is comforted and the boat stays dry if it happens to rain (nothing ruins a good night sleep more than a v-berth wet from rain coming through an open hatch). The storms usually stay to the south of us, and we are able to sit on the dock and enjoy terrific lightning shows, cool breezes and very little rain. Nice cooling down for the evenings.

And so life goes on. We are quite content to pass the summer in Varadero. We have talked of a possible trip to the Cay Sal Bank ˆ an apparent uninhabited part of the Bahamas which is only 65 miles from here ˆ perhaps scoot up there for a week or so, for a “summer vacation”. In late September, we will be closely watching the weather ˆ the boats at the marina have a hurricane hiding hole in a stand of mangroves, and Chavez is geared up for helping us take La Vida Dulce into protective custody, if required. In the meantime, we do not have to plan a trip to the States for supplies, and we can play on the beach, visit our friends, and do what we can to keep cool. We enjoy receiving your e-mails with news from our friends and families, and will do our best to get back to you when we can. Please note our e-mail address is still dandeba13@aol.com, however, when we send e-mails from here, we have to use our Yahoo address, as the AOL site can only receive. Please continue using our AOL address. And, finally, we hope you enjoy the photos included in this update, complete with captions.

Take care, enjoy the summer, and keep in touch.

Danny, Debbie y Lobita sailing on La Vida Dulce